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Vol-au-vent is a pleasant surprise

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Café Rouge, High Street, Dorking

T he sun was setting over the Surrey hills and there was a distinct chill in the air. After many days of mild weather, the cold was particularly noticeable.

It dawned on me that little by little, the dark and depressing days of December were now behind us and daylight was extending by about two minutes each day.

It was late afternoon as I motored into Dorking, finding a parking space in the municipal car park next to Sainsbury's. I pulled my coat to, wrapped a scarf around my neck and headed into town. Shopkeepers were preparing to close for the day but the Original Factory Shop, which occupies the former Woolworths store, was still brightly lit with the doors open.

Passing Woodcock's, the chemists, I looked up and wondered what had happened to those huge old apothecary's bottles that were such a distinctive feature of the High Street. They used to be in the front window every time I passed.

I glanced inside the White Horse Hotel and saw the tables neatly laid out for evening meals – wine glasses placed beside cutlery.

After a short spell of window shopping, and with pangs of hunger nagging, it was time for tea – or even something a little more substantial.

Most of the cafés I passed in the High Street were now shut for the day but I was pleased to see that one restaurant, Café Rouge, was open, so stepped inside.

I hesitated as to where to sit before deciding to take a place in the corner by the window. It is always nice to peer out at life outside when you are in the warm, sipping a hot beverage.

On the next table was a young family.

One of the children had finished her drink but continued sucking on the straw until there was a noise like the last of the bath water going down the plug hole.

Another child was fiddling with the little pods of sugar in a bowl.

"Don't do that, darling. Other people want to have them with their tea," came the gentle reprimand from dad.

I perused the menu, brought to the table by a most helpful waiter, and ran my finger down the list.

It was now gone 5pm so I would be able to choose two dishes from the set evening menu.

I picked a ham and Gruyère cheese vol-au-vent and a latte to start with and a chopped steak burger and fries to follow.

I could have picked from the "quick bites" menu which offered dishes such as croque monsieur with French fries (£7.95) for the weary shopper.

Also available on this list was croque madame with fries (£8.75); chicken baguette (£8.95); steak baguette (£9.75); and cheese soufflé.

"Look over there at that doggie. What is it?" the dad, nearby, asked his little daughter.

"A poodle," the toddler whispered back.

The vol-au-vent was brought to the table and I was surprised that it took the form of a triangular puff pastry. I thought the vol-au-vent was usually a pastry cup with the filling poured into the central well. The snack was neatly laid out on a plate of leaves.

I enjoyed the filling but I was busy reading some leaflets so by the time I tucked in it was only lukewarm and I was glad when the burger and fries arrived.

"What's that?" asked the young girl, pointing.

"It's a brownie," explained mum.

The girl turned to dad and asked him: "Do you need a napkin? It will go everywhere!"

I was impressed. She must have been copying the advice mum dispenses at home.

I returned to the menu and concluded that the sweets menu offered what could be considered as an afternoon tea, if accompanied by coffee or tea to drink. There were chocolate and banana crêpes (£5.50); apple tartes (£5.50); ice creams (£4.25); and one that caught my eye – almond and apricot pudding with cream.

I stared up at the walls and windows of this cosy, softly-lit restaurant. French words such as champagne, spiritueux, vins rouge, baguettes and salon de thé were artistically written on the glass and plasterwork.

I gave in and ordered the almond and apricot pudding, which helped to prolong my visit in the soporific environment.

A middle-aged couple arrived and sat close by and chatted.

"He weighed 13½ stone but he still looked quite trim."

A couple of foreign customers came in out of the cold and also took a window seat.

In the background ambient music played gently. A saxophone piece sent me dreamily into another world.

"It's two years since I handed in my notice but financially I'm all right," said a lady on a table a few yards away.

My eyes began to close. Wouldn't it be nice if they did bed and breakfast here? It would be tempting to dive onto a bed and go into a deep sleep.

But no. It was time to settle the bill and head off into the rush hour on the A25. What a shame!

Vol-au-vent  is a pleasant surprise


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